WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A SUIT
A good suit is essential. Here is what to look for in your next wardrobe upgrade. From fabric, cuff buttons and shoulders.
Every man should own a great suit. Period. Zero exceptions. There is this certain feeling you get when wearing one. It’s like confidence. It’s looking and feeling good and taking yourself serious. It’s the piece to wear on you most important days of life. So of course, the suit has to match the importance of the day. But still, it can be a jungle out there? Because why is there such a big difference in price? Why can you get a suit in Zara and H&M for less than $200, while most other places they cost more like $1000. Of course, fabric, fitting etc. is a big deal. And the brand name. But there is still some overall things to look for when buying your next suits. So here it is, our guide – to make sure you get the suit right next time.
1. The Size
This one is the most important ones. Please be aware of sales guys that will tell you all you want to hear. That you look good in everything etc. You know the deal. Many guys make the mistake when buying a suit that it is way too big. Please don’t do this. It makes all the good things that a suit do to you, disappear instantly. If you think you are a size 50, try the 48 first.
Here is some quick tips: The suit’s shoulders should hug yours; shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders. If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big.
About your chest, you should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist’s worth.
2. Number of Buttons
You can get a one-button suit (for the formal events), two button suit (the modern classic), 3-button suit (nice as an alternative to you two-buttoned suits) and even a 4-button suit (never go for one). What should you choose?
Well, the safe choice is the two-buttoned one. It’s the most versatile and approved suit most of the times.
To mix things up a bit, having a 3-buttoned suit is a good idea. But only invest in these, after you have a certain amount og two-buttoned – at least if you ask us.
The one-buttoned suit is a great pick for more formal events and will definitely be a piece that gives you an edge over your competitors.
3. The Fabric
There are so many different suit fabrics that it could take us several hours talking about each and one. You already know pinstripe-suits, prince of wales-suits, checkered-suits, seersucker-suits etc. All of them can become a serious part of your suit-wardrobe. Though, we will take you through the basis suits, what we refer to as the essentials.
The Hopsack is perhaps one of our favorites. It is a cloth woven with a fine basketweave-like texture, which means that it is a bit more textured and despite that it often feels very strong and thick, it is actually very breathable why it is a perfect choice when you are to wear a suit in the summer.
Wool Suits is another favorite. Though it can be a jungle out there to know the difference between all the various types of wool. “Super 100s” or “Super 140s” – what does it all really mean? In short, the number indicates texture – the higher the number, the softer the fibres.But notice this: higher grades aren’t always the best for all situations. The further you climb up the scale, the less durable the cloth. A super 100- to 130-grade material is a superb all-rounder.
The Blended-suits is perhaps the most common types of suits. Wool-silk blends is a typically all-around fabric that can be worn most of the year. Then you got the silk-linen bends that are for the summers.
4. The Cuff Buttons
Your cuffs can be simplified into two things. Working cuffs and non-working cuffs. Working cuffs means that the buttons on the cuff actually functions. You know, put the sleeve together. And that you can un-cuff them if needed. Though they’re mostly found on bespoke suits, many leading tailors incorporate them into ready-to-wear designs. Obviously, making a suit with working cuffs takes a great amount of work compared to just sewing the buttons on. Often, why the giant clothing companies such as H&M and Zara are not making suits with working cuffs. Some tailoring aficionados actually leave their last cuff button undone to show that they do indeed function. So in this way, you can easily spot if the brand actually put a real effort to the suit.
5. The Vents
For those unfamiliar with the term, a vent is the slit you see on the backside of blazers, sport coats, suit jackets, and any other type of jacket. Some jackets (often the cheap ones) actually comes with no vent. Please walk away from these, the fit is horrible. So you actually just got two different vents to know. Center Vents and Side Vents.
A center vent is the one you see on the right. It is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong.
The side vents are what the fine british tailors trust. It’s good for the action man who both sits and walks a lot during the day. To be honest, both works. It’s just a matter of preference here.